Turtle Bay Resort
Oahu

Leaving the city limits of Honolulu, the taxi driver informed me that we were entering what the locals called "the country." Not that I expected corn and Holsteins, but the rows of pineapple leading to the foot of a lush green mountain ridge and the sandy shores of Northern Oahu didn't exactly constitute country livin' in my book.

One thing that I've always loved about being out in the country is the absence of city lights, which creates ideal conditions for stargazing. Turtle Bay Resort confirmed that this also rings true in Hawaii. Morgan Freeman, Minnie Driver, Owen Wilson and Charlie Sheen were all shining examples. During my visit these stars were stationed at Turtle Bay Resort, filming a movie in which Owen Wilson plays the proverbial surfer dude (who I'm guessing can do karate, shoot a pistol and dodge bullets all while catching a wave). An apropos setting, since Turtle Bay's situated on some of the world's most renown waters for surfing.

Every year for the past 20, professional wave warriors fight for the title, "World's Best," at the Triple Crown of Surfing competition. The women's competition even takes place right in front of the resort, so you can watch these athletes maneuvering skillfully atop 20- to 30-foot waves while hanging out on your hotel lanai sipping piña coladas. The massive waves are a signature trait of the North Shore during the winter months, creating a surfer haven.

Sitting out on the beach, I watched a barefoot boarder approach. Surfboard balanced perfectly on his head, blonde hair contrasting sharply with his bronzed, buff body, I had this sudden urge to take up surfing. Turtle Bay Resort offers on-site Hans Hedemann surfing lessons, which actually take place in the calmer waters of Kawela Bay, just around the corner. Here, sea turtles are more common than sea swells, so it serves as an optimal location for learning to surf.

"Paddle, Victoria, paddle!" Noah, the instructor commanded as he pushed the back of my board into the approaching wave, which appeared much bigger than it did from shore. I pushed myself up and snapped my legs underneath me. Standing on the board, I sang the "Hawaii Five-0" song in triumph and exaggerated my surfer pose before nature decided to humble me, throwing me off the board with one swoosh of current.

Raw and powerful on Oahu's North Shore, nature grabs hold of the psyche and exerts its strong influence, instilling you with pure and simple awe. Turtle Bay Resort is the only resort able to harness a bit of this energy, as the 880-acre property stands alone on this northernmost peninsula. Built in 1972 and most recently a Hilton property, Turtle Bay Resort has invested over $50 million in renovations.

One of the most impressive additions to this 375-room resort is the 42 luxury beach cottages that edge the shore like kids vying for candy at a parade. Only a fringe of grass separates these clusters of six cabinesque accommodations from the sand. Brazilian walnut floors, 15-foot ceilings and Kallista deep soak-tubs accent the multi-level beach retreats, which showcase Los Angeles designer Michael Smith's best work. The other 375 rooms also incorporate the Brazilian walnut, but exhibit a much more late 60's retro feel, with clean, simple lines. The beach cottages truly extend a more intimate and indulgent holiday experience.

Pampering, however, proves to be a common thread woven throughout every guest's vacation at Turtle Bay Resort--especially the thread found in the spa bathrobes. Awaiting summons for my vichy shower massage, I sat on a lounger 40 feet from ocean's edge sipping lemon-infused water and watching the waves crash violently against the shore. There's something about being close to nature of this magnitude that cleanses toxic stress and puts life into perspective, which is why this is such an ideal location for Turtle Bay's 8,000-square-foot bungalow spa. No other spa can imitate this experience due to building restrictions enforced after Turtle Bay's original construction in 1972.

Spa cuisine can also be an integral part of this restorative experience. With Executive Chef Andrew Manion-Copley preparing it, you're assured healthful cuisine that doesn't entail soggy tofu and overcooked vegetables. Serving as a chef in England, Australia and across the U.S., Copley adds stylish flair to the Euro-Asian cuisine featured in 21° North. Premier vendor relations provide his restaurants with some of the most sought-after seafood in Hawaii.

Whether counting calories or not, a healthy appetite is guaranteed. Twelve miles of marked trails lead one along wooded paths to quiet beachfronts and craggy lava coastline figurines reached either by foot or on horseback. Peter Burwash International hosts professional tennis lessons, clinics and tournaments at the property. Swinging in a different direction altogether, 36 holes of world-class golf can also be found on site at the Arnold Palmer Course and Fazio Course. Here, the likes of Chi Chi Rodriguez and Sam Snead toughed it out during a televised Senior Skins Game in '88 and hosted an afternoon tee time for the LPGA Tour's Hawaiian Open.

True, the whopping $50 million into renovations definitely adds a little wash to the wave of newcomers at Turtle Bay Resort, but even more priceless is the location in which this property resides. The luxurious beachfront cottages provide the ideal way to experience an indulgent walk on Oahu's wild side. So as the star detective of the 70's hit TV show, "Hawaii Five-0," said it best, "Book 'em Danno."