Molokai Travel Guide

The Land of Rustic Charm

Molokai changes very little. That's its secret strength. Now it has finally started to market itself for what it is a place to flee civilization, to ride, hunt, fish or just catch up on daydreams.

Rather than luxury hotels, Molokai now has luxury campsites where you can rough it, but within reasonable comfort, all in an ecologically sustainable development.

For many visitors, Molokai is not a good choice. If you are looking for elegant resorts, extensive shopping, glittering nightlife, three- and four-toque restaurants, you will not find them here. If you want any excitement, youıre probably going to have to make it yourself. Local wisdom advises that Molokai is where you go for retirement or for a honeymoon‹the island is quiet and unpretentious.

If you can feel at home in a small, closely knit, rural atmosphere, if you can remember to wave to others as your cars pass on the two-lane roads, and if you are in no hurry for anything in particular to happen, then Molokai should be your choice. If you are looking for unspoiled diving, hiking and riding, you may love it here. This island will provide a rejuvenating retreat for those who are open to its rustic, unhurried charm.

In ancient times, the island was known by the native Hawaiians on other islands as a center of great spiritual power. The priests of Molokai once repelled invading warriors by the sheer force of their chanting. Local lore is filled with stories of both ancient and contemporary mana, or spiritual power.

Molokai considers itself the birthplace of hula and celebrates this tradition each May with the Ka Hula Piko (birthplace of hula) festival at Papohaku Beach Park on the west end.

Spiritual power is also the legacy of Blessed Damien, the Belgian priest who came to Molokai to minister to those with Hansenıs disease (leprosy). Visitors can still take a mule ride down the trail into the hauntingly beautiful Kalaupapa Peninsula where Damienıs leper colony still exists. For many years, Damien functioned as parish priest to the whole of Molokai. Small wooden churches where Damien preached and gave the sacraments still dot the east end of the island.

Archaeologists have found one of the earliest Native Hawaiian settlements in the rain-forested Halawa Valley at the end of the eastern road.

The drier, leeward end of the island is where youıll find the Kaluakoi Resort with its golf course and fine public beaches. The former plantation town of Maunaloa also sits on a hill above these resort properties, looking out over the vast expanse of the Pacific. The Molokai Ranch, which owns most of the west-end lands, has refurbished the town and thatıs where youıll find its innovative camping environment, which is ideal for active outdoorsy couples or families.

Between the green, windward east and the dry, leeward west end lies the main town of Kaunakakai. This is the traditional seaport and administrative center of the island with several hotels, restaurants and condo complexes in easy proximity to this small hub of island life.

We reiterate that Molokai is not for everyone‹not for the finicky or those in a hurry. As the rest of Hawaii becomes over-developed and congested with vehicular traffic, Molokai remains a refuge of great natural beauty and human friendliness for those with the time and insight to appreciate these now uncommon qualities.