Dec 1, 2004
By Thom
I had heard rumors long before we arrived at Anse Chastanet-the most exclusive and beautiful resort on the island of St. Lucia-that the views from this property were world class. And when the famous skyline greeted Shawna and me as we rounded the last of the hairpin turns on the long and winding road from the airport, it took our breath away. There, rising from a sapphire sea off the southwestern coast of the island, were the two half-mile peaks of Gros and Petit Pitons, twin summits that travelers often call the eighth wonder of the world.
But the 600-acre rainforest property of Anse Chastanet had more wonders in store for us. "If that's the eighth wonder of the world, then I think we've found the ninth," Shawna said when we were escorted to our hilltop retreat, one of 14 original villas purchased and redesigned by architect Nick Troubetzkoy in 1974.
She was right. Perched like a tree house clinging to the steep and forested side of the sea cliff, our octagonal whitewashed villa felt as lofty and expansive as the lush views from our wrap-around balcony. Almost within reach of our fingertips was the living forest of bright red flamboyant and gommier trees.
No two cottages are alike at Anse Chastanet. And ours was fantastic. The living room was wonderfully open and the bedroom, with its louvered doors and draped mosquito net over the bed, was classic island romance. Even the colors of the forest seem to fill the room?the bedspread and chairs are covered with ginger lilies, anthuriums and bougainvillea.
My favorite discovery, however, was a perfect recovery from the hike up the hillside?a refreshing outdoor shower perfect for cooling off during the day and admiring the stars at night.
Shortly after unpacking, Shawna and I made the hike down to the main resort for lunch. One of the great dichotomies at Anse Chastanet is the tug-of-war between complete relaxation and the desire to partake in the many activities offered at the resort. Shawna and I were torn over what to do, but agreed that a nice lunch at the Trou au Diable Restaurant, one of two on the property, would be a good way to start our stay. While it was easy enough to find some Americana in the restaurant, the local specialties caught our eyes. I settled on jerk chicken and Shawna had a cold crab salad.
Our lunch by the sea became a familiar routine. We'd spend the mornings relaxing on one of two black-sand beaches, eat and then decide what to do next. Shawna and I often returned to our small beach hut and spent the afternoon snorkeling and swimming, or simply relaxing in the shade. The beach service is fantastic. Each couple gets their own thatched beach house with a small yellow flag. Raise the flag and an attentive beach boy will bring you towels, drinks and lunch. "If you want," ours said, "I'll even turn you over when you're tan on one side." And whenever he did bring us something, he also offered to "spread a little happiness" and misted us with a peppermint spritzer. Not only did the beach hut provide us with shade during the hottest part of the days, but also it was fun to sit under when one of the torrential, but brief, tropical showers passed overhead.
The beach also had fantastic snorkeling and scuba diving. The diving is easy here, with calm waters. The resort even boasts an SSI Platinum Pro and PADI dive facility. For those wanting even more of an adrenalin rush, there is a great alternative to hiking the nearby hills. "We call it jungle biking," my guide said, as we set out on one of the numerous trails on new Canondale bikes. "There are more than 12 miles of trails through the forests," he said as we warmed up on a mellow single-track through a fern forest. With three levels, there is something for everyone.
But just doing nothing is still an honorable way of passing time at Anse Chastanet. It has been perfected at the Kai Belte Spa. Kai Belte, Creole for "House of Beauty," sits on the beach at the base of the sea cliffs.
The spa offers a complete menu of romantic and healing treatments. My favorite was Wosh Cho, a hot stone massage. In a not-so-subtle nod at the romantic atmosphere and numerous honeymooners, the spa also offers a couples massage course where they teach young lovers the art of sensual touch. Judging from the fact that many couples seem to spend much of their days hidden away in the open air rooms, Kai Belte has perfected their sensual massage class.
On one of our last evenings at Anse Chastanet, we joined a sunset cruise aboard the resort's 45-foot yacht. As we sailed along the spectacular coast we sipped local rum punch and wine. The sun burned redder and imposing peaks of the Pitons cast long shadows over the forests. Far above the magical coastline of palms and black lava cliffs, I could just make out the last light falling on Anse Chastanet.
"To the eighth wonder of the world," Shawna toasted, raising her glass. "And to the ninth as well," I smiled.
She was right. Perched like a tree house clinging to the steep and forested side of the sea cliff, our octagonal whitewashed villa felt as lofty and expansive as the lush views from our wrap-around balcony. Almost within reach of our fingertips was the living forest of bright red flamboyant and gommier trees.
No two cottages are alike at Anse Chastanet. And ours was fantastic. The living room was wonderfully open and the bedroom, with its louvered doors and draped mosquito net over the bed, was classic island romance. Even the colors of the forest seem to fill the room?the bedspread and chairs are covered with ginger lilies, anthuriums and bougainvillea.
My favorite discovery, however, was a perfect recovery from the hike up the hillside?a refreshing outdoor shower perfect for cooling off during the day and admiring the stars at night.
Shortly after unpacking, Shawna and I made the hike down to the main resort for lunch. One of the great dichotomies at Anse Chastanet is the tug-of-war between complete relaxation and the desire to partake in the many activities offered at the resort. Shawna and I were torn over what to do, but agreed that a nice lunch at the Trou au Diable Restaurant, one of two on the property, would be a good way to start our stay. While it was easy enough to find some Americana in the restaurant, the local specialties caught our eyes. I settled on jerk chicken and Shawna had a cold crab salad.
Our lunch by the sea became a familiar routine. We'd spend the mornings relaxing on one of two black-sand beaches, eat and then decide what to do next. Shawna and I often returned to our small beach hut and spent the afternoon snorkeling and swimming, or simply relaxing in the shade. The beach service is fantastic. Each couple gets their own thatched beach house with a small yellow flag. Raise the flag and an attentive beach boy will bring you towels, drinks and lunch. "If you want," ours said, "I'll even turn you over when you're tan on one side." And whenever he did bring us something, he also offered to "spread a little happiness" and misted us with a peppermint spritzer. Not only did the beach hut provide us with shade during the hottest part of the days, but also it was fun to sit under when one of the torrential, but brief, tropical showers passed overhead.
The beach also had fantastic snorkeling and scuba diving. The diving is easy here, with calm waters. The resort even boasts an SSI Platinum Pro and PADI dive facility. For those wanting even more of an adrenalin rush, there is a great alternative to hiking the nearby hills. "We call it jungle biking," my guide said, as we set out on one of the numerous trails on new Canondale bikes. "There are more than 12 miles of trails through the forests," he said as we warmed up on a mellow single-track through a fern forest. With three levels, there is something for everyone.
But just doing nothing is still an honorable way of passing time at Anse Chastanet. It has been perfected at the Kai Belte Spa. Kai Belte, Creole for "House of Beauty," sits on the beach at the base of the sea cliffs.
The spa offers a complete menu of romantic and healing treatments. My favorite was Wosh Cho, a hot stone massage. In a not-so-subtle nod at the romantic atmosphere and numerous honeymooners, the spa also offers a couples massage course where they teach young lovers the art of sensual touch. Judging from the fact that many couples seem to spend much of their days hidden away in the open air rooms, Kai Belte has perfected their sensual massage class.
On one of our last evenings at Anse Chastanet, we joined a sunset cruise aboard the resort's 45-foot yacht. As we sailed along the spectacular coast we sipped local rum punch and wine. The sun burned redder and imposing peaks of the Pitons cast long shadows over the forests. Far above the magical coastline of palms and black lava cliffs, I could just make out the last light falling on Anse Chastanet.
"To the eighth wonder of the world," Shawna toasted, raising her glass. "And to the ninth as well," I smiled.